Three Passes with Lobuche East Peak

This day is dedicated to final preparations before heading into the mountains. In the morning, we review our gear with our guides, ensuring that every piece of equipment, from down jackets to climbing boots, crampons, and harnesses, is ready for the high passes and the Lobuche East Peak summit. Those who need additional gear can easily find it in the shops around Thamel.

With preparations complete, we can spend the afternoon exploring Kathmandu’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites. A visit to Swayambhunath Stupa (Monkey Temple), Boudhanath Stupa, or Pashupatinath Temple introduces us to Nepal’s rich spiritual traditions. Wandering through the ancient alleys of Kathmandu Durbar Square brings history alive, with its intricate wooden carvings and palaces.

By evening, we regroup for a pre-trek meeting with our team. The excitement builds as we go through the detailed plan for the trek—crossing three major passes and attempting the summit of Lobuche East. The night ends with a good rest, knowing tomorrow we fly into the Himalayas.

The adventure truly begins today. We wake early for a spectacular mountain flight to Lukla, often described as one of the most thrilling flights in the world. The small aircraft soars above rolling hills and piercing Himalayan peaks, finally landing at the Tenzing-Hillary Airport (2,800m), perched dramatically on a hillside.

From Lukla, we meet our porters and begin our first trek. The trail descends gently through pine forests and Sherpa villages, with fluttering prayer flags and mani walls guiding our way. The sound of the Dudh Koshi River rushing below adds to the magical ambiance. Along the path, we pass through small settlements like Chheplung and Ghat, where children greet us with warm smiles.

After a 3 to 4-hour walk, we arrive at Phakding (2,652m), a charming riverside village surrounded by green hills and dotted with tea houses. Here we settle into our lodge, enjoy a hot meal, and take our first real taste of trekking life in the Himalayas. The air is crisp, the sky clear, and the mountains silently towering above—tomorrow, we climb higher toward Namche.

Today we set out on one of the most exciting trekking days of the journey as we make our way toward the legendary Namche Bazaar. The trail begins with a gentle walk along the banks of the Dudh Koshi River, surrounded by pine and rhododendron forests. We cross several suspension bridges, their prayer flags fluttering wildly in the mountain breeze. Among them is the iconic Hillary Suspension Bridge, perhaps the most famous bridge in Nepal, perched high above the roaring river.

As we continue, the path gradually climbs through small Sherpa villages such as Monjo and Jorsalle, where we stop for tea and snacks. From Monjo, we officially enter the Sagarmatha National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site protecting the wildlife, culture, and landscapes of the Everest region. After the park checkpoint, the trail grows steeper, testing our endurance as we climb steadily toward Namche.

Finally, after 6 to 7 hours of trekking, we arrive at Namche Bazaar (3,440m). The colorful houses built into the mountainside welcome us with warmth and energy. Known as the "Gateway to Everest," Namche is the bustling hub of the Khumbu, filled with shops, bakeries, trekking gear outlets, and cafés. From here, we already catch our first clear glimpse of Mount Everest peeking above the ridges. Tonight, we rest in this vibrant town, preparing for an acclimatization day tomorrow.

At this altitude, acclimatization is essential, and Namche is the perfect place to do it. Rather than resting completely, we take a short acclimatization hike to higher ground, which helps our bodies adapt to the thinner air. The most popular option is a hike to the Everest View Hotel (3,880m), one of the highest luxury hotels in the world. From its terrace, we are rewarded with jaw-dropping views of Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and Nuptse.

We can also explore the traditional Sherpa village of Khumjung, home to the famous Hillary School and a monastery said to house a relic of a Yeti scalp. This day gives us deeper insight into Sherpa culture, allowing us to experience their hospitality, customs, and stories.

Back in Namche, the atmosphere is lively. Trekkers from all around the world gather here, sharing their experiences. Cafés serve fresh pastries, and small museums showcase Sherpa history and Everest expeditions. While it may feel tempting to relax completely, our short hikes today are crucial for preparing us for the challenging passes and high-altitude climbs ahead.

Today we leave the bustling center of Namche and step into a more tranquil side of the Khumbu. The trail to Thame follows a less-crowded path westward, tracing ancient trade routes that once connected Nepal with Tibet. As we walk, the trail winds through pine forests and across stone-paved paths, with stunning views of Kongde Ri and Kusum Kanguru towering above.

The villages along the way are smaller, and the pace of life feels slower. We pass chortens, prayer wheels, and mani walls, each reminding us of the deep Buddhist traditions that thrive in these remote valleys. Unlike the main Everest Base Camp trail, this route feels peaceful and unspoiled, giving us a real sense of Sherpa heritage.

After about 5 to 6 hours of trekking, we arrive at Thame (3,800m), a village steeped in history. Many legendary Sherpa climbers, including Tenzing Norgay, came from this area. Thame is also known for its beautiful monastery, perched on a hill above the village, where we can join the monks for evening prayers. Surrounded by the silence of the mountains and the glow of butter lamps, it feels like stepping into a timeless world.

Leaving the historic village of Thame, we step deeper into the Bhote Koshi Valley, an area once used as a trade route to Tibet. The trail feels quieter here, far away from the busy Everest Base Camp path. We ascend gradually, walking along stone-walled fields where yaks graze peacefully and where prayer flags flutter against a backdrop of snow peaks.

The higher we go, the more the landscape begins to change, lush forests thin out, replaced by alpine shrubs and rocky terrain. The trail is steady, giving us plenty of opportunities to enjoy the crisp mountain air and panoramic views of Thamserku, Kongde Ri, and Kusum Kanguru.

After 4 to 5 hours of trekking, we reach Marlung (4,137m), a small settlement perched above the Bhote Koshi River. The village feels serene, with only a few lodges, and offers a quiet night’s rest as we prepare for higher altitudes ahead. The sense of isolation here is powerful; it feels like we are entering the wilder, untouched side of the Khumbu.

Today’s trek is short but important for acclimatization as we make our way higher to Lungden. The trail continues through barren landscapes with stone houses and sparse vegetation. The terrain feels raw and rugged, showing us how life at high altitude is shaped by nature’s extremes.

We move slowly, mindful of the increasing altitude, allowing our bodies time to adjust. Along the way, we pass ancient chortens and cairns, symbols of faith that have guided travelers for centuries. The silence here is striking—only the sound of our footsteps and the wind in the valley keeps us company.

After about 4 to 5 hours of walking, we reach Lungden (4,600m), a remote settlement that serves as the last stop before our big challenge tomorrow: Renjo La Pass. From here, we can already see snow-covered ridges rising in the distance, teasing us with what’s to come. The air feels thinner, the nights colder, but the excitement of crossing one of the Three High Passes fills us with anticipation.

This is a big day, one of the most memorable and challenging of the entire trek. We start early in the morning, carrying headlamps to guide us in the pre-dawn darkness. The climb toward Renjo La Pass (5,465m) is steep and demanding, with rocky steps and icy sections, but each step takes us closer to a view that few places on earth can match.

Reaching the top of Renjo La feels like standing on a balcony above the Himalayas. The panorama from here is breathtaking—Mount Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu stand tall in a line, while below us, the turquoise Gokyo Lakes sparkle like jewels in the valley. Prayer flags dance in the wind, adding to the spiritual energy of the pass. We pause here, not just to catch our breath, but to soak in the majesty of this moment.

From the pass, the descent is steep at first, then gradually eases as we make our way down to the shores of Gokyo Lake (4,800m). The village of Gokyo, with its stone houses and stunning backdrop, feels like a hidden gem in the Himalayas. After 7 to 8 hours of trekking, we settle into our lodge, enjoying hot tea while gazing at the shimmering waters of the lake. Tonight, we rest knowing we have conquered our first high pass, and even greater adventures lie ahead.

The day begins early as we hike up Gokyo Ri (5,330m), one of the best viewpoints in the entire Everest region. The climb is steep and challenging, but every step rewards us with widening views. As we ascend, the sun slowly begins to rise, painting the peaks in shades of gold and crimson. When we reach the summit, the panorama is truly unforgettable. Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu, all four of the world’s tallest mountains, rise before us in a jaw-dropping display. Below, the Gokyo Lakes shimmer a bright turquoise, and the Ngozumpa Glacier stretches like a frozen river.

After soaking in the view, we descend back to Gokyo village for breakfast. With hearts full of awe, we continue trekking towards Thaknak (4,750m), a small settlement on the eastern side of the glacier. The trail involves crossing the Ngozumpa Glacier, a surreal walk over rocky moraines and ice formations. The terrain feels otherworldly, like walking through a frozen desert.

By afternoon, after 5 to 6 hours of total trekking, we reach Thaknak, where we rest in preparation for another big day tomorrow—Cho La Pass.

Today is one of the toughest yet most exciting parts of the trek, the crossing of Cho La Pass (5,367m). We start early, as the weather in high passes can change quickly. The climb begins with a steep ascent through rocky trails and snow-covered slopes. The higher we go, the more challenging the terrain becomes, with icy sections requiring careful footing.

At the top of the pass, the world opens up. We stand surrounded by towering peaks, Ama Dablam, Cholatse, Lobuche, and Baruntse, all glowing in the crisp morning light. The fluttering prayer flags at the pass remind us that we’ve reached another spiritual and physical high point of the journey.

The descent from Cho La is steep and sometimes slippery, leading us down into a valley surrounded by ice cliffs and rocky ridges. After a long but rewarding 7 to 8 hours of trekking, we finally arrive at Dzongla (4,850m), a quiet village nestled beneath the imposing north face of Cholatse. The sense of achievement tonight is powerful—we have now crossed two of the Three Passes.

Leaving Dzongla, the trail gradually descends before joining the classic Everest Base Camp route. For the first time in many days, we begin to see more trekkers and yaks on the trail, a reminder that we are nearing one of the world’s most iconic destinations.

The walk is scenic, with views of Ama Dablam, Pumori, and Nuptse constantly in sight. The trail leads us through rocky terrain, crossing streams and ridges, before we finally reach Lobuche (4,910m), a popular stop for trekkers heading to Everest Base Camp. After a short break, we continue toward Gorakshep (5,160m), the last settlement before Base Camp.

Gorakshep sits on a barren plateau of sand and rock, surrounded by jagged peaks and glaciers. The thin air is noticeable here, but the excitement of being so close to Everest Base Camp keeps us energized. The trek today takes about 6 to 7 hours, leaving us with time to rest and prepare for tomorrow’s big highlight—our walk to Everest Base Camp itself.

This is the day we’ve all been waiting for, the walk to Everest Base Camp (5,357m). After an early breakfast, we set out from Gorakshep along a rocky and glacial path. The trail is not too steep, but the high altitude makes every step feel heavier. Prayer flags, icy ridges, and the rumbling of avalanches from distant slopes remind us that we are deep in the heart of the Himalayas.

As we approach Base Camp, the excitement builds. When we finally arrive, standing among the colorful tents of climbers preparing to ascend Everest, the feeling is surreal. We look up to see the Khumbu Icefall, a massive frozen cascade that marks the first section of the Everest climb. Standing here, where legendary climbers have begun their journeys to the highest peak on Earth, is deeply humbling.

After soaking in the moment, taking photos, and reflecting on the achievement, we return to Gorakshep for lunch and then trek back down to Lobuche (4,910m). The descent feels easier, and we sleep in Lobuche with Base Camp memories fresh in our hearts.

With the thrill of Base Camp behind us, we now prepare for the ultimate challenge—climbing Lobuche East Peak (6,119m). Today’s journey is shorter but more technical. Leaving Lobuche, we ascend gradually over rocky trails, moraines, and icy sections. The landscape becomes stark and rugged, with fewer signs of vegetation.

After 3 to 4 hours of trekking, we reach Lobuche East High Camp (5,400m). From here, the summit looks tantalizingly close yet still daunting. At camp, our guides conduct a final climbing briefing, teaching us how to use crampons, ice axes, ropes, and harnesses. The rest of the day is for rest and acclimatization because tomorrow will be our biggest and most demanding day of the expedition.

The night is cold and quiet, but our minds are alive with anticipation for the summit push

Summit day begins in the dark, long before dawn. Wearing headlamps and layers of warm gear, we start climbing around 2–3 am to take advantage of stable morning weather. The climb begins with steep rocky trails before we transition onto the glacier, where crampons and ropes become essential.

The route is demanding, with steep ice slopes ranging between 45 to 50 degrees. Using fixed ropes, we make steady progress, step by step, towards the summit ridge. As dawn breaks, the first rays of sunlight illuminate the surrounding giants—Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Makalu, and Pumori, all standing in breathtaking grandeur.

Finally, after 8 to 9 hours of climbing, we reach the summit of Lobuche East Peak (6,119m). Standing on this high Himalayan crest, with a 360° panorama of the world’s tallest mountains, is a moment of pure triumph. The struggle of the climb melts away, replaced by overwhelming joy and gratitude.

After celebrating briefly at the summit, we carefully descend back to High Camp and then continue down to Lobuche (4,910m) for a well-deserved rest. The sense of accomplishment tonight is unmatched, we’ve not only trekked the Three Passes but also stood atop a Himalayan peak.

Today we take on the final and most challenging of the Three High Passes—Kongma La (5,535m). The morning begins with a steep ascent through rocky terrain and glacial moraines. The path is rugged, less trodden compared to Renjo La and Cho La, which makes the crossing feel more adventurous and remote.

The climb is tough, but reaching the top of Kongma La rewards us with dazzling views of Makalu, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and the turquoise lakes of the Imja Valley below. Standing here feels like being on a secret Himalayan balcony, with towering giants surrounding us on every side.

From the pass, we carefully descend along loose scree and rocky sections before entering the Imja Valley, a wide open space with a dramatic backdrop of Ama Dablam. By afternoon, we reach Chhukung (4,730m), a small village popular among climbers heading to Island Peak. Tonight, we rest and reflect on the fact that we have successfully crossed all three high passes.

After several days above 5,000 meters, today feels more relaxed as we descend into greener valleys. The trail from Chhukung gradually descends through Dingboche, a picturesque Sherpa settlement surrounded by stone walls and barley fields. From here, Ama Dablam dominates the skyline, its sharp peak standing as one of the most photogenic mountains in the region.

The path continues toward Pangboche, where we pass by one of the oldest monasteries in the Khumbu. Prayer flags flutter, and the smell of incense fills the air, reminding us of the deep spiritual connection between the Sherpa people and the mountains. After lunch, we descend further through pine and rhododendron forests, where musk deer and colorful Himalayan birds are often spotted.

By late afternoon, we reach Tengboche (3,867m), home to the famous Tengboche Monastery. This monastery, with Everest and Ama Dablam rising behind it, is one of the most iconic scenes of the trek. In the evening, we may witness the monks’ prayer ceremony, a serene and moving experience after days of adventure.

The descent continues as we make our way back to the lively town of Namche Bazaar. The trail begins with a steep descent to the Dudh Koshi River, crossing a suspension bridge before climbing again through lush forests of fir, juniper, and rhododendron. The scenery feels different now, more alive and colorful compared to the barren landscapes of the high passes.

We pass through Phunki Tenga and climb steadily to Kyangjuma, where Everest and Lhotse reappear in the distance, reminding us of where we’ve been. Soon, the familiar crescent-shaped Namche Bazaar comes into view. Returning here feels like coming home—shops, bakeries, and warm Sherpa hospitality bring comfort after weeks in the wild.

In the evening, we can relax with friends over a hot cup of tea or even celebrate with a slice of cake from the famous Namche bakeries. It’s a day of both joy and nostalgia, as we know the trek is slowly coming to an end.

The journey back continues with a long but rewarding descent toward Lukla, where our trek first began. The trail retraces parts of our earlier path along the Dudh Koshi River, winding through small Sherpa villages such as Monjo and Phakding.

Descending from Namche to Lukla allows our legs to recover while offering a final opportunity to take in the Khumbu scenery. The forests of pine and rhododendron provide dappled sunlight on the trail, and we often stop to photograph traditional stone mani walls and prayer flags fluttering in the wind.

After about 6–7 hours of trekking, we arrive at Lukla (2,840m). The bustling airport village feels lively and familiar now. We can explore local lodges, share stories with fellow trekkers, and prepare for the next day’s flight back to Kathmandu. The satisfaction of completing the high passes and summiting Lobuche East is palpable—it’s a day of reflection and quiet celebration.

Today, we board a scenic flight back to Kathmandu, often described as one of the most spectacular and thrilling flights in the world. From the air, we enjoy final aerial views of the majestic Himalayan range—peaks, glaciers, and valleys we’ve traversed for the past three weeks.

Landing at Tribhuvan International Airport, we are greeted by the bustling energy of Kathmandu once again. The contrast between the serene Himalayas and the lively streets of Thamel is striking, but it also brings a sense of accomplishment and completion. In the evening, we can enjoy a celebratory dinner with our team, reflecting on the incredible journey and sharing stories from the trek and summit.

The adventure concludes as we prepare for our final departure from Kathmandu. Depending on flight schedules, we may have a few hours to explore the city, shop for souvenirs, or visit cultural sites like Boudhanath Stupa or Patan Durbar Square one last time.

As we board our flight home, the memories of the Three Passes, the summit of Lobuche East, and the awe-inspiring landscapes of the Everest region remain vivid. The journey leaves a lasting impact—not just physically but spiritually and emotionally. We carry with us not only photographs but also a deep connection to the mountains, the Sherpa culture, and the personal triumph of completing one of the most challenging treks in the world.